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ORIGIN
Twelve centuries after the
Buddha attained 'nirvana' the Tibetan King
Songstsen Gampo (Sron-bTsan Sgam-Po) who ruled from 618
to 649 AD, married Wen Chen from the court of China's
Tang dynasty and Bkrikuti Devi, a Nepalese princess.
Under their influence, Buddhism slowly developed in the
Central Himalayan and Trans Himalayan regions of Tibet,
Spiti, Lahaul and Ladakh till it became the predominant
faith.
GLIMPSES OF PRESENT LIFE
Buddhism is the way of life in
Ladakh. There are ancient Buddhist rock engravings all
over the region, even in areas like Dras
and the lower Suru Valley which today
are inhabited by an exclusively Muslim population. The
divide between Muslim and Buddhist, Ladakh passes
through leh (on the Kargil-Leh road) and between the
villages of Parkachick and Rangdum in the Suru Valley,
though there are pockets of Muslim population further
east, in Padum (Zanskar), in
Nubra Valley and in and around Leh.
The approach to Buddhist village is invariable marked by
mani walls which are long chest-high structures faced
with engraved stones bearing the mantra in mane paddle
hum and by shorten, commemorative cairns, like stone
pepper-pots. Many villagers are crowned with a
gompa or monastery which may
be anything from an imposing complex of temples, prayer
halls and monks dwellings, to a tiny
hermitage housing a single image and home to solitary
lama. Islam too came from the west. A peaceful
penetration of the Shia sect spearheaded by
missionaries, its success was guaranteed by the early
conversion of the sub-rulers of Dras, Kargil and the
Suru Valley. In these areas, mani walls and shorten are
placed by mosques, often small unpretentious buildings,
or Imambaras imposing structures in the Islamic style,
surmounted by domes of sheet metal that gleam cheerfully
in the sun.
APPEARANCE OF PEOPLE
The
traveler from India will look in vain for similarities
between the land and people he has left and those he
encounters in Ladakh. The faces and physique of the
Ladakhis, and the clothes they wear,
are more akin to those of Tibet and Central Asia
than of India. The original population may have been
Dards, an Indo-Aryan race from down the
Indus. But immigration from
Tibet, perhaps a millennium or so ago, largely
overwhelmed the culture of the Dards and obliterated
their racial characteristics. In eastern and
central Ladakh, today's population seems to be
mostly of Tibetan origin. Further
west, in and around Kargil,
there is much in the people's appearance that suggests a
mixed origin. The exception to this generalization are
the Afghans, a community of
Muslims in Leh, the descendants of marriages
between local women and Kashmiri or Central Asian
merchants.
WORK
CULTURE
The demeanor of the people is
affected by their religion, especially among the women.
Among the Buddhists, as also the
Muslims of the Leh area, women not only work in the
house and field, but also do business and interact
freely with men other that their own relations. In
Kargil and its adjoining regions on the
other hand, it is only in the last few years that women
are emerging from semi-seclusion and taking jobs other
than traditional ones like farming and house -keeping.
The natural joie-de-vivre of the Ladakhis
is given free rein by the ancient traditions of the
region. Monastic and other religious
festivals, many of which fall in winter, provide the
excuse for convivial gatherings. Summer pastimes all
over the region are archery and polo. Among the
Buddhists, these often develop into open-air
parties accompanied by dance and song, at which
Chang, the local brew made from fermented
barley, flows freely.
COMPOSITE HERITAGE
Of the secular culture, the most
important element is the rich oral literature of songs
and poems for every occasion, as well as local versions
of the Kesar Saga, the Tibetan national epic.
Buddhists and Muslims. In fact, the most highly
developed versions of the Kesar Saga and some of the
most exuberant and lyrical songs are said to be found in
Shakar-Chigtan, an area of the western
Kargil district exclusively inhabited by Muslims,
unfortunately not freely open to tourists yet.
Ceremonial and public events are accompanied by the
characteristic music of surna and daman
(oboe and drum), originally introduced into Ladakh from
Muslim Baltistan, but now played only by
Buddhist musicians known as Mons.
ITINERARY
Day 01: Delhi - Leh
Day 02: Leh-Lamayuru
Day 03: Lamayuru-Wanlah
Day 04: Wanlah-Hinju Valley
Day 05: Hinju-Konze La-Camp
Day 06: Camp-Sumdo Choon
Day 07: Sumdo Choon-Satpski La-Alchi
Day 08: UleTokpo-Leh
Day 09: Leh-New Delhi
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